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DINING OUT

‘Moko’ and ‘Fuji at Kendall’ fill sushi gaps

A review of two new sushi restaurants - one in South Boston, the other in Cambridge - serving Japanese, Korean, and Chinese fare.

Moko, a new Japanese and Korean restaurant in South Boston, was an instant hit. The neighborhood is hungry for sushi, and more — here there is a market for an increasing diversity of restaurants. Moko does best with elaborate sushi rolls such as (from left) the Coco Salmon and Wild Fire.

JOSH REYNOLDS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Moko, a new Japanese and Korean restaurant in South Boston, serves elaborate sushi rolls such as (from left) the Coco Salmon and Wild Fire.

A starter called

JOSH REYNOLDS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

A starter called "sexy crispy" consists of a crunchy wonton chip topped with tuna tartare.

Moko’s appetizers are inspired by Japanese cuisine — for instance, tofu katsu, fat cubes of bean curd breaded and fried in a manner traditionally done with thin cutlets. They are enticingly golden and crisp on the exterior, but cool on the interior.

JOSH REYNOLDS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Moko’s appetizers are inspired by Japanese cuisine — for instance, tofu katsu, fat cubes of bean curd breaded and fried.

Korean main dishes at Moko are a disappointment. Beef chapchae is oily and bland.

JOSH REYNOLDS FOR THE BOSTON GLOBE

Korean main dishes at Moko are a disappointment. Beef chapchae is oily and bland.

Meanwhile, in Kendall Square, demand for more restaurants long exceeded supply. Then, suddenly, Kendall blossomed. There are new places to eat on every block. Among them is Fuji at Kendall, another sushi spot, from the people behind Fuji 1546 and other Quincy establishments. Pictured: the dynamite roll, filled with roe, cucumber, avocado, jalapeno, and tuna and topped with seared scallop.

Essdras M Suarez/Globe Staff

Fuji at Kendall, another sushi spot, offers the dynamite roll, filled with roe, cucumber, avocado, jalapeno, and tuna and topped with seared scallop.

Kimchi tofu soup is warming and pleasantly sour. It's worth ordering multiple bowls so no one has to fight for the last spoonfuls.

Essdras M Suarez/Globe Staff

Kimchi tofu soup is warming and pleasantly sour. It's worth ordering multiple bowls so no one has to fight for the last spoonfuls.

Fuji at Kendall also offers drinks with the jumbo tapioca balls called boba, such as this creamy, refreshing Thai tea slush.

Essdras M Suarez/Globe Staff

Fuji at Kendall also offers drinks with the jumbo tapioca balls called boba, such as this creamy, refreshing Thai tea slush.

Darul Kabab owner Monir Saji.

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Food & dining

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