It?s like the water is always calling to us. At least that?s how it feels to me. There?s a spiritual energy about the ocean, a saltwater baptism waiting to wash away your worries if you ride your faith. Still, I never saw anything like Inkwell, a small stretch of beach in Oak Bluffs on Martha?s Vineyard. And the Inkwell was among the first and is now one of the last Black beach destinations in America.